What’s the difference between white water and green waves?
White water is the foam left behind once a wave has broken. It pushes you forward with little effort, which is why everyone learns there first. A green wave is the unbroken face before it breaks. You catch it by matching its speed, and then you ride along it, not just straight towards the beach.
| White water | Green waves | |
|---|---|---|
| Where you catch it | Inside, after the wave breaks | Outside, before the wave breaks |
| What moves the board | The foam pushes you | Gravity on the sloping face |
| How much paddling | A few strokes | Early, hard, sustained paddling |
| Direction of the ride | Mostly straight in | Along the face, towards the shoulder |
| Main skill | Pop-up and balance | Positioning, timing, reading waves |
Where should I sit to catch green waves?
Sit just outside the spot where the waves start to break. Too far out and the waves are still soft and roll under you. Too far in and they break on your head.
Aim for the peak (the highest part of the wave, which breaks first) or a little towards the shoulder (the unbroken part that the wave peels towards). The shoulder is softer, so it’s a better place for your first green waves.
Before paddling out, spend ten minutes on the beach watching where the sets break. Then, once you’re in the water, pick two fixed points on land and line them up so you can keep returning to the same spot. Currents will drift you, so check your marks every few minutes.
How do I paddle into an unbroken wave?
Timing matters more than strength. A wave moves faster than you can paddle, so you need speed before it arrives.
- Turn early. When a good wave is still a few board lengths away, turn towards the beach and start paddling.
- Get your body position right. Lie with the nose just above the water. Too far forward and it digs in. Too far back and you stall.
- Take long, deep strokes. Reach forward and pull the full length of your arm, rather than splashing quickly.
- Add two or three more strokes. When the tail lifts and the board starts to glide, keep paddling. Stopping at this point is the most common reason waves pass underneath.
- Look where you’re going. Once the board is gliding, pop up and look along the face, not down at your feet.
How do I know which wave to take?
It’s choosing the wave, more than the paddling, that sets apart surfers who catch green waves from those who don’t. Watch how each wave rises as it comes towards you.
| What you see | What it means | Should you go? |
|---|---|---|
| A peak rising near you, with an unbroken shoulder to one side | A well-formed wave | Yes, angle slightly towards the shoulder |
| A gentle swell that isn’t steepening yet | It will break further in | Wait, or move a little further inside |
| The whole wave standing up at once along its length | A close-out, with no open face | Let it go |
| The wave already breaking in front of you | You’re too late or too far in | Duck under it or turtle roll |
| Someone already up, or paddling from deeper on the peak | Their wave | Pull back |
Waves usually come in sets. The first wave is often not the best one, and if you fall on the first wave you end up in the path of the rest. Many surfers let one go and take the second or third.
Who has priority in the line-up?
The surfer closest to the peak, where the wave is breaking, normally has priority. Dropping in on someone already riding is dangerous and is the most common way to cause a collision. If in doubt, don’t go. Another wave is always coming.
Why is Magic Bay a good place to make the jump?
Magic Bay, in Imsouane, is a long right-hand point break of roughly 800 metres that peels over sand for much of its length. On a point break the waves tend to break in a fairly consistent spot, which makes positioning far easier than on an open beach. And because it peels gradually, you always have a soft shoulder to aim for. On a right-hander you ride to your right as you face the beach.
Cathedral Point, on the exposed side of the headland, is a different story. It’s more powerful and breaks over rock, so it’s better kept for later.
Timing helps too. Mornings are usually the cleanest, while onshore wind tends to build after midday and makes waves harder to read. May to August generally brings the smallest swell, the most relaxed time for this step. From September to April the swell is more consistent, and December to February is the biggest and busiest period.
What mistakes hold most surfers back?
- Sitting too far out: waves roll under you before they steepen.
- Paddling too late: you have no speed when the wave arrives.
- Stopping too early: the board stalls just as it starts to glide.
- Lying too far forward: the nose digs in and you go over the front.
- Going for every wave: you get tired and end up caught inside.
An experienced coach watching from close by can spot which of these is holding you back much faster than you can on your own. That’s why small groups help at this stage.
Where to go from here
If you want to work on green waves with a coach, our surf lessons run in groups of five or fewer, plus semi-private and private options. A surf week gives you several sessions in a row, which is often when it clicks. If you already surf, you can rent a board and wetsuit. On flat days or rest days, have a look at our activities.